Move over mayo, make way for pesto. Soggy tuna sandwiches? Replaced by panini. Cans of Coke? Make that champagne with a straw. Labor Day picnics are going gourmet, say pros in the picnic packing, planning and preparing business.
“People are putting more thought into making picnics personal and unique,” says Chicago-based party planner Debi Lilly, whose business, A Perfect Event, threw Oprah Winfrey’s 50th birthday party. She identifies theme picnics such as French or Tuscan — serving foods from those regions — as popular. “They’re not more difficult or complicated — you can buy many things from gourmet groceries — but they’re much more special.”
Challenged by wraps in recent years, picnic-staple sandwiches have had a makeover, replacing Wonder Bread with artisan baguettes, using soppresotta instead of bologna, gooey hunks of brie winning over cheese product singles and French’s Mustard the victim of pestos of every stripe.
“Simply constructed with fresh ingredients, flavor combinations in sandwiches can be bold and unforgettable,” says Nancy Silverton, founder of La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles. “Don’t look at them as complicated sandwiches, but as satisfying entrees on bread. If you’re willing to venture beyond the basic construction of a sandwich, just slapping two pieces of bread together with filling in the middle, this will expand your horizons. Be creative and think outside of the sandwich box.”
Think way beyond sandwiches, says Joachim Splichal, chef and founder of the Patina Restaurant Group, which handles food service at the Hollywood Bowl concert venue in Los Angeles along with dozens of restaurants. He favors bringing items from a traditional dining table outdoors.
“Picnics are about spending time with family and friends, but that doesn’t mean you have to eat sandwiches,” says Mr. Splichal. “I like to bring great wines, artisan cheeses, even a chilled soup to make the experience more exciting.”
Increasingly sophisticated palates demand more thrills, say caterers and chefs. “We get people on dates or with friends they want to impress,” says Azmin Ghahreman, chef/owner of Sapphire Pantry in Laguna Beach, Calif., a new takeout shop that specializes in upscale picnics.
He offers such savory fare as grilled vegetable couscous salad, chilled shrimp with harissa aioli, asparagus tips with truffle mayo and tenderloin sandwiches with arugula pesto on ciabatta bread. “Elements of surprise are important. It’s a well-balanced meal and not just a Coke and tuna salad.”
Grain salads are edging out traditional pasta salads in health-minded circles, according to Chicago-based Tasty Catering, which threw 418 picnics last year. The company also noted using higher quality meats such as skinless, boneless chicken breasts in preparations.
If you’re planning on cooking before heading outdoors to dine, party planner Lilly advises making one salad as the focal point of the meal and supplementing with store-bought breads, cheeses, fruits, nuts and desserts. “The beauty of a picnic is it’s so simple,” she says. “You don’t have to slave over the stove, and you’ll still have something special.”
Consumer goods and food makers have mined our lust to dine al fresco with new products that make it more convenient. Chillzanne Bowls (www.pamperedchef.com) incorporate a gel-pack lining that, frozen before food is packed, keeps it cold. Cocktails by Jenn (www.cocktailsbyjenn.com) supplies four single-serving martinis in a handy to-go bucket. Sofia sparking wine (www.sofiamini.com) comes in minicans with their own straws. Three Thieves winery (www.threethieves.com), among many vintners, offers varietals in four-packs of 250 ml. cartons (a little less than a cup per carton).
“A jug of wine is so yesterday,” says April Masini, author of “Date Out of Your League” (Turnkey) and the advice Web site www.askapril.com. To further update the picnic, she suggests bring-your-own music. “An MP3 player with an extra set of earphones — or even more romantic, one ear bud for each of you — will bring you and your picnic date closer, physically, and you’ll share the same music.”
Organic raspberry Bellini
The recipe that follows is from Wild Oats markets.
1 10-ounce bag organic frozen raspberries, thawed
Water
1/4 cup organic sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 750 ml. bottle of prosecco or other sparkling wine or sparkling mineral water, chilled
Fresh organic raspberries for garnish
Mix raspberries with 3 tablespoons water and sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat, turn down to simmer and cook 2 minutes. Remove from heat and place in blender with lemon juice.
Puree until smooth. Strain mixture through a mesh strainer to remove any seeds. Discard seeds. Place 3 tablespoons raspberry puree in the bottom of a champagne flute and fill with prosecco. Garnish with a fresh raspberry or two. Makes about 6 servings.
Tomato and mozzarella sandwich
The recipe that follows is based on one from Nancy Silverton, founder of La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles.
1 long baguette, cut in 6 or 8 ½-inch slices, or 3 demi baguettes, halved horizontally
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil for brushing bread
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 pound (2 large balls) fresh mozzarella, sliced
2 to 3 ripe (large size) heirloom tomatoes or other ripe tomatoes
Scallion oil (recipe follows)
Kosher salt
Handful of fresh basil leaves
Brush bread with olive oil and grill it for a few minutes on each side until bread is lightly browned. Rub one side of each slice of bread with garlic clove. Place slices on serving plates, garlic side up. Arrange 2 or 3 slices of mozzarella over each half slice of bread. Arrange 2 to 3 slices of tomato on top of mozzarella. Spoon scallion oil over tomatoes and mozzarella. Sprinkle with salt. Top with a few leaves of fresh basil and then other slice of grilled bread and serve. Makes 3 to 6 servings.
SCALLION OIL
1 bunch scallions, green parts only, coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process scallion and parsley until finely chopped. Add olive oil and process another few seconds to combine. Season to taste with salt. Set aside.
Grilled vegetable couscous salad
The recipe that follows is from Azmin Ghahreman, chef-owner Sapphire Pantry in Laguna Beach, Calif.
2 cups cooked Moroccan couscous
1/4 cup grilled eggplant, diced
1/4 cup grilled zucchini, diced
1/4 cup grilled yellow squash, diced
1/4 cup roasted red bell pepper, diced
1/4 cup grilled or blanched broccoli flowerettes
Juice and zest of 1 lemon, or more
1 tablespoon toasted cumin (see note)
1/4 to ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
11/4 cup chopped parsley
Salt and pepper
Mix together cooked couscous, eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, roasted red pepper, broccoli, lemon juice and zest, toasted cumin, 1/4 cup olive oil, parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Add more lemon juice or olive oil if salad seems dry. Makes about 4 servings.
Note: To toast cumin, place in dry pan and cook, stirring frequently, until it just begins to change color and aroma is released, about 1 to 2 minutes.
Roast tenderloin sandwich with arugula pesto on ciabatta
This recipe is based on one from Sapphire Pantry.
1 small ciabatta bread
Arugula pesto (recipe follows)
Sliced beef tenderloin, cooked rare
Heirloom tomato slices
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Arugula leaves
Slice open ciabatta. Spread arugula pesto on both inside parts of bread. Place as many beef slices as desired on bread, top with sliced tomato, salt and pepper to taste and arugula leaves. Cover with the top half of bread. Makes 1 serving.
ARUGULA PESTO:
4 cloves garlic
1/4 cup pine nuts
1/4 cup grated Parmesan
1 cup arugula leaves
1 cup basil leaves
Juice of one lemon
1/23/8 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper
In a food processor or blender, make a paste by combining garlic, pine nuts and Parmesan. Add arugula and basil, then pulse together. Add lemon juice and slowly drizzle olive oil to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Summer berry salad with vanilla bean chantilly
This recipe is based on one from Patina Restaurant Group executive chef Gregg Wiele. Note that vanilla bean is wonderful in this. So, if possible, substitute the pulp of 2 vanilla beans for ½ teaspoon vanilla in both the vanilla simple syrup and the vanilla bean chantilly cream.
3/4 cup ripe strawberries, hulled and quartered
3/4 cup fresh raspberries
3/4 cup fresh blueberries
3/4 cup fresh blackberries
Vanilla simple syrup (recipe follows)
Vanilla bean Chantilly cream (recipe follows)
Mint leaves for garnish
In a plastic bowl with a tight-fitting lid (for easier transport to picnic), toss strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries together. Drizzle with vanilla simple syrup. Serve with dollops of vanilla bean chantilly cream and garnish with mint leaves.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
VANILLA SIMPLE SYRUP
Water
1/4 cup sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
Combine 1/4 cup water with sugar and bring to simmer. Remove from heat, add vanilla and let cool to room temperature. Chill.
VANILLA BEAN CHANTILLY CREAM
3/4 cup whipping cream
3 to 4 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla
In a bowl, combine whipping cream, sugar and vanilla. Whisk until soft peaks form. Refrigerate until just before leaving for picnic. Keep chilled until serving.
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