An elevator whisks you to the fourth floor and the entrance to the sleek new Hotel Palomar in Arlington, above three floors of offices, and into an elegant world of beautiful spaces, comfortable seating, soft carpets, whimsical art and a stylish and colorful decor.
This is Domaso Trattoria Moderna, where executive chef Massimo Fedozzi works in an open kitchen. Mr. Fedozzi is an Italian native, and though the restaurant is named for what was a small fishing village by Lake Como, his cooking includes more of northern Italy than merely Lombardy.
Many of the dishes are pure Italian: panzanella, the Tuscan bread salad; urgiada, a pork-based barley and barlotti (cranberry bean) soup; and cappon magro, a Ligurian specialty of three kinds of seafood layered with vegetables and dusted with a parsley sauce — and no chicken, despite the name. It is a small tower of layers of steamed branzino (sea bass), lobster and shrimp interspersed with layers of thinly sliced cooked carrot and beet and served with a touch of sauce. It”s an unusual combination that could be both intriguing and very good, but ours came to the table straight from the refrigerator. It”s a mild dish and should be served at room temperature.
Caprese fritta, a version of the traditional salad of tomato and mozzarella, deserves to come in from the cold, too. The dish ought to be an excellent one, the combination of deep fried mozzarella with cool tomatoes, roasted peppers and a touch of white wine sauce are a merging of harmonious elements. Any deep-fried dish must come to the table piping hot, and this one did not. At best, it was lukewarm; hot, it would be a great beginning.
The best antipasto is a dish simply called “polenta.” Two large triangles of baked polenta are imbued with a rich creamy sauce. It”s simple, elegant and delicious and not to be missed.
Salads include a pleasant baby artichoke salad dressed with lemon juice, olive oil and Parmesan cheese. The Caesar salad is chopped romaine in a nondescript dressing with two small slices of toasted French bread with olive paste.
A tomato and bread soup tastes heavily of tomato paste, but the little gnocchi sprinkled with basil oil swimming in the middle of a red sea are quite delicious.
Pastas are both good and varied. Tagliolini are spaghetti with potatoes and green beans in a pesto sauce. Small red snapper ravioli are sauteed with shrimp, clams, mussels and tomato in a white wine sauce. Thin spaghetti are sauced with a mix of tomatoes, mozzarella and fried zucchini. Potato-stuffed tortellini, served in a sauce of goat-milk butter and pecorino cheese, are delicate and delicious. Risotto is prepared with wild mushrooms and taleggio cheese for a depth of flavor.
A half boneless chicken is an excellent entree. The little chicken has been roasted and then sauteed with mushrooms, tiny chestnut balls and grapes. It”s moist and flavorful, an excellent version of a comfort food dish.
The lemon white wine sauce complements the delicacy of the orata (gilthead bream) filets make a fine presentation of a mild fish. Baby artichokes and potatoes make good sides, though the sprinkling of olives is a little sharp.
Herb-rubbed beef tenderloin is perfectly prepared, served with a sweet red onion marmalade. The dish would be better served with a side of vegetables, rather than wilted arugula, but that”s a minor quibble. Two other dishes complete the limited main course menu: a grilled veal chop and grilled jumbo shrimp.
The lunch menu is similar to Domaso”s dinner offerings, except lunch includes several panini.
We tried the tiramisu for a sweet finish to a good meal. The first bite was delicious but subsequently the dessert became a bit dry in spots. Another house specialty are krapfen, little round doughnut balls filled with chestnut mousse and Concord grape jelly and rum infused cream. Yum.
Domaso”s extensive wine list is mostly Italian, and there are many good, relatively unknown bottles in all price categories.
Service is outstanding. Diners are treated with care and courtesy, and there”s always a smile and kind word with a knowledgeable understanding of the menu.
RESTAURANT: Domaso Trattoria Moderna, 1121 N. 19th St., Arlington; 703/351-1211
HOURS: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday to Friday; dinner 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. daily
PRICES: Appetizers $6 to $10 (lunch), $6 to $12 (dinner); main courses $10 to $17 (lunch), $13 to $38 (dinner); panini $10 to $11; desserts $8
CREDIT CARDS: All major cards
PARKING: Limited street parking; complimentary valet parking
ACCESS: Wheelchair accessible
METRO: Rosslyn
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