During all the hand-wringing over the past couple decades about the nutritional correctness of eggs, I never lost sight of a delectable platter of deviled eggs, favoring tradition over health trends that shift like hemlines.
That’s because when I was growing up, a cut-glass platter or two of the fancy eggs were set out at showers, weddings, club meetings, graduation dinners, church suppers, picnics and ball games, offering a dazzling array of flavors. The offering was often referred to as “dressed up” eggs.
To this day, I can’t think of any other appetizers that moved so quickly or, for that matter, were so easy to make.
In this old Southern specialty, the eggs are simply boiled — actually, hard-cooked is the correct culinary expression these days — and the yolks are mashed, stirred with mayonnaise and mixed with whatever else suits the fancy, then spooned back into the cavity of the egg white.
Over the years, I’ve savored deviled eggs swirled with bits of ham, salmon, crabmeat, shrimp, anchovies, caviar, chutney, pickles, blue cheese, onions, scallions and a few tablespoons of salsa. A sprinkle of curry powder, chopped parsley, or basil often gilded the lily.
Cayenne pepper or a few drops of hot sauce added a hot note, probably the reason why the eggs were called “deviled” in the first place back in the early 19th century. According to the “Oxford Companion to Food,” that name was applied to hot and spicy food as a vivid reference to Lucifer and his resting place.
No matter. Some picky hostesses stirred the mashed hard-cooked egg yolks with homemade mayonnaise, avoiding the store-bought variety. I personally like the mashed egg yolks mixed with a few tablespoons of mustard vinaigrette.
“You can never, ever have too many deviled eggs,” I remember my Aunt Mary saying years ago as she gingerly placed a platter laden with more of the eggs than she would need, at her home on the Gulf Coast in Biloxi-Gulfport, just as the sisters from the Mercy Seat Missionary Club were pushing through the front gate, their strides hurried with anticipation.
Then the health-food movement hit in the 1970s, and researchers said that eggs spiked cholesterol and increased heart disease, reason enough to sneak them when no one was looking.
However, the pendulum seems to be swinging back the other way, what with the American Heart Association now saying that an egg or so a day is OK for most people. The thinking is that saturated fat from beef, pork and hydrogenated shortening are the real cholesterol culprits.
Eggs are full of nutrients. Egg whites provide high-quality protein, and eggs yolks are a good source of absorbable iron, a key nutrient in blood building. Recent research shows that egg yolks offer two deep-yellow pigments, lutein and zeaxanthin, that are thought to offer health benefits for the eyes.
EGG-CELLENTLY COOKED
I’ve tested this recipe countless times, and this method works best for me. I suggest you follow it for the following recipes.
For perfect hard-cooked eggs, use eggs on hand in the refrigerator for several days, not freshly bought eggs. Fresh eggs don’t peel easily.
Place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold them in a single layer. Cover with cold water, topping off with a couple extra inches or more of water.
Set the pan on medium-high heat and bring to a gentle, bubbly boil. Immediately reduce the heat to low and cook the eggs for 10 to 15 minutes, uncovered, allowing the longer cooking time for jumbo and extra large eggs.
Drain the eggs and immediately cover with cold water. Tap each egg gently with a heavy spoon to crack. Let cool for a few minutes more in the cold water, and peel under running cold water, removing any clinging bits of shell.
Dry the eggs with paper or cloth toweling. Using a stainless steel knife, cut in half either lengthwise or crosswise.
sing a wooden spoon (silver or stainless steel will darken the yolks) spoon out the egg yolks and place in a small glass or porcelain bowl and mash the egg yolks until smooth.
Since a platter of deviled eggs is as pretty to look out as to devour — and nutritious, too — here are some favorite recipes.
For a pretty, swirled effect, transfer the egg-yolk filling to a pastry bag fitted with a large leaf style tip or other decorative tip. Then pipe the filling into the egg white halves, squeezing the bag gently near the tip, with a bold swirl. Easy. Pastry bags are sold in department stores and housewares stores.
Here is a recipe for a delicious mayonnaise that can be used in the deviled eggs.
Homemade mayonnaise
This richly flavored mayonnaise is free of stabilizers and fillers. The egg yolk is uncooked, so pregnant women and children should avoid it. Store the mayonnaise in the fridge in a tightly covered jar and use within a week.
1 egg yolk
½ teaspoon dry mustard or 1 tablespoon prepared mustard
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon cider or wine vinegar
1 cup olive oil or grapeseed oil, or ½ cup each
1 to 2 tablespoons lemon juice
Place the egg yolk, mustard, salt, pepper and vinegar in a small bowl. Using an electric hand mixer, beat the mixture on high speed for about 5 minutes or until slightly thickened.
Add the oil, 1 teaspoon at a time, beating 10 to 15 seconds after each addition.
Continue beating this way until at least 1/4 cup of the oil has been added and the mixture has thicken and formed an emulsion.
Once thick, begin adding the oil in a slow, steady stream, beating continuously.
Caution: Don’t add the oil too quickly or the mayonnaise may curdle. If this happens, set the mayonnaise in a bowl of warm water and beat briskly until it emulsifies again.
Once all the oil is beaten in and the mayonnaise is thick and creamy, stir in the lemon juice. Makes a scant 11/4 cups.
Classic deviled eggs
6 whole hard-cooked (boiled) eggs
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 teaspoons spicy brown mustard
2 tablespoons grated onions
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or less
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped parsley or watercress
Cook the eggs according to Egg-cellently Cooked (above).
Place the egg yolks in a glass or porcelain bowl and, using a wooden spoon, mash until smooth. Stir in the mayonnaise, mustard, onions, cayenne pepper, salt and black pepper. Beat to blend well.
Fill the cavity of the egg whites with the egg yolk mixture. Sprinkle tops with the chopped parsley or watercress.
Place the stuffed eggs on a glass or porcelain platter, lined with lettuce leaves, if desired.
Cover the eggs with wax paper or plastic wrap. Chill at least 1 hour before serving, or longer, if desired. Makes: 12 stuffed eggs.
Variation: Substitute 2 tablespoons each of light cream and olive oil for the mayonnaise, and stir in 2 tablespoons chopped capers to the egg-yolk mixture.
Anchovy or caviar deviled eggs
This is a personal favorite. I love anchovies and shamelessly adore caviar.
6 hard-cooked eggs
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
Pinch of salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 can (2 ounces) caper rolled anchovy filets, or
3 or 4 tablespoons black caviar, domestic or imported
2 or 3 lemon wedges
Cook the eggs according to directions. Place the egg yolks in a glass or porcelain bowl and using a wooden spoon, mash until smooth. Stir in the mayonnaise, salt and black pepper and mix until smooth.
Fill the cavity of the egg whites with the egg-yolk mixture.
Place the stuffed eggs on a glass or porcelain platter, lined with lettuce leaves, if desired.
If using the anchovies, drain and place on a layer of paper towels. Arrange the anchovies on the top of the stuffed eggs, or spoon on the caviar. Cover the eggs with wax paper or plastic wrap. Chill at least 1 hour before serving, or longer, if desired.
Before serving, squeeze over the lemon wedges.
Makes: 12 stuffed eggs.
Chicken or ham deviled eggs
6 hard cooked eggs
½ cup finely chopped cooked chicken or ham
4 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 or 2 tablespoons finely chopped or grated onion
2 to 3 teaspoons coarse grain mustard or smooth Dijon-style mustard
½ teaspoon hot pepper sauce, or to taste, or 1 finely chopped chili pepper, seeds removed
2 tablespoons chopped parsley or cilantro
Cook the eggs according to directions.
Place the egg yolks in a glass or porcelain bowl and using a wooden spoon, mash until smooth.
Add the chicken or ham, mayonnaise, onion, mustard, hot pepper sauce or chili pepper, and parsley or cilantro.
Mix until well-blended.
Fill the cavity of the egg whites with the egg-yolk mixture.
Place the stuffed eggs on a glass or porcelain platter, lined with lettuce leaves, if desired.
Cover the eggs with wax paper or plastic wrap.
Chill at least 1 hour before serving, or longer, if desired Makes: 12 stuffed eggs.
Variation: Substitute cooked salmon, crabmeat or shrimp for the chicken or ham, and fresh dill can replace the parsley or cilantro.
Curried deviled eggs
6 large hard-cooked eggs
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
2 tablespoons buttermilk or plain yogurt
2 tablespoons finely minced scallions
1½ teaspoons curry powder
1 to 2 teaspoons bottled chutney
1/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Cook the eggs according to directions above.
Place the egg yolks in a glass or porcelain bowl and using a wooden spoon, mash until smooth.
Stir in the mayonnaise, buttermilk or yogurt, scallions, curry powder, chutney, salt and black pepper.
Stir until smooth. Fill the cavity of the egg whites with the egg-yolk mixture.
Place the stuffed eggs on a glass or porcelain platter, lined with lettuce leaves, if desired.
Cover the eggs with wax paper or plastic wrap.
Chill at least 1 hour before serving, or longer, if desired.
Makes: 12 stuffed eggs. TRIBUNE MEDIA SERVICES
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