Friday, May 16, 2008

Spezie, 1736 L St. NW, 202/467-0777. Italian. Chef Cesare Lanfranconi, who made magic in the kitchen at Tosca, now presides at Spezie.

The food at Spezie is good but uninspired.

Pastas are very good; appetizers include lamb carpaccio, crab and corn fritters, and a warm oyster stew. Meat and fish dishes are high-quality and well-prepared, accompanied by interesting vegetable combinations, but often oversauced.



Corinna Lothar

Minibar by Jose Andres, 405 Eighth St. NW; www.cafeatlantico.com/miniBar/miniBar.htm, 202/393-0812. Avant garde. Minibar, in Cafe Atlantico, is as much performance as gastronomic tour de force.

Guests sample 28 unique bite-sized dishes, such as beet tumbleweed and man-made eggs, all prepared in front of them on a $120-per-person prix-fixe menu. There are two seatings nightly on six stools. Reservations are taken one month in advance.

Gabriella Boston

Aqua Terra, 164 Main St., Annapolis; www.aquaterraofannapolis.com, 410/263-1985. Asian fusion. Aqua Terra has been delivering the best of land and sea in a contemporary setting in downtown Annapolis for eight years.

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The kitchen emphasizes creativity whether plates are large (such as the sesame-seared tuna atop lemon-grass risotto) or small (duck tacos; asparagus tempura; and shrimp and pork dumplings).

Chocolate lava cake is the perfect gooey rich dessert.

Scott Haring

Kemble Park Tavern, 5125 MacArthur Blvd. NW, 202/966-5125. American. This informal, cheerful neighborhood restaurant in Washington’s Palisades area serves a nice mix of classic American dishes with a few variations, such as a lamb gyro sandwich, and steak tartare served in a Mason jar.

Chicken wings are terrific, Delmonico steak is excellent. There’s a good selection of wine, brunch on Sundays, and lunch is on the way.

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Corinna Lothar

Bice Ristorante, 7501 Wisconsin, Ave., Bethesda, 301/654-2250. Italian. Bice returns to the Washington area with an elegant, spacious restaurant with generous space between tables.

Perfect gnocchi, veal Milanese (cutlet) and large ossobuco and other Italian standbys are prepared with care and served in generous portions.

Expensive, but a perfect setting for a special-occasion dinner in a calming 1930s setting. Excellent service.

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Gabriella Boston

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