Pho is good way to sample fare of Vietnam

• Article
• Comments ()
• Click-2-Listen
• Videos

By

Pho Nhu-Y, tucked among car dealerships, health studios and fast-food joints along Route 7 --

West Broad Street -- in Falls Church, is easy to miss. But that would be a shame, because this new Vietnamese restaurant makes a darn good pho, the Vietnamese take on noodle soup.

Owner and chef Calvin Nguyen boils beef bones for at least 10 hours to make this delicious broth, which is also flavored with rich spices such as cloves and nutmeg. The result is a mild, but tasty broth that's the basis for at least a dozen phos.

The brisket pho is a good choice -- the noodles are plentiful and tasty and the meat delicious and thinly sliced. Other choices include a tripe pho and a vegetarian variety with tofu.

The menu offers just two appetizers, although the phos can be ordered small or large -- as appetizers or main courses.

One of the excellent non-pho appetizer choices is the crispy egg rolls that come with a sweet and spicy dipping sauce. The other is the fresh garden rolls, which include steamed shrimp, chicken and vegetables, that are served with the oh-so-tasty peanut sauce.

Among main courses, the shaky beef (yes, that's the name) is a nice choice. Cubed pieces of beef -- which have been marinated overnight with garlic, cilantro, paprika, lime juice and olive oil -- are sauteed quickly in a pan.

"We call it 'shaky beef' because you have to keep shaking the pan so the meat won't burn," Mr. Nguyen says. "You want the outside brown and the inside medium rare."

The shaky beef is served with jasmine rice and julienned vegetables.

Another good main course is the grilled shrimp and pork loin, served on a bed of rice noodles. The meat is tender and has that refreshing marinated-in-lime flavor; the shrimp are nicely seasoned.