Tiny A la Lucia worth the wait for basic Italian

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Even with a reservation, you'll have to wait for your table at A la Lucia, a neighborhood restaurant not much bigger than a matchbox on Madison Street in Alexandria, three blocks from the Potomac River.

Michael Nayeri's Italian restaurant has been popular since it opened last year, and for good reason. Mr. Nayeri was formerly the maitre d' at Roberto Donna's Galileo in Washington.

There's space for six booths and six tables. A refrigerated case of bottles of white wine greets patrons as they enter. Behind the case and the counter, a waiting diner catches a glimpse of the kitchen, whetting an appetite as Mr. Nayeri and his waiters scurry back and forth with steaming platters of pasta and bottles of Italian wines.

The decor is whimsical with faux 1920s photos a la Rudolph Valentino on the wall. A vase of brightly colored tulips sits beside the cash register, echoed by small vases on some of the tables.

A la Lucia's forte is basic, rustic-style Italian dishes, well prepared with fresh ingredients. No fancy preparations, towers or curious mixtures here. The menu is not extensive, but each dish is prepared with care. There are four antipasti, half a dozen soups and salads, and 10 pastas and an equal number of main courses.

Among the starters, the mussels in tomato sauce are terrific. It's a large portion, easily shared. The warm mussels are plump, medium-sized, and cooked to the magical point between under and overcooking so they melt on the tongue. The tomato sauce is rich and chunky, blending perfectly with the mussels.

The mixed antipasti consists of marinated baby artichokes, black olives, excellent grilled portobello mushrooms and roasted peppers. It's a very Italian combination.

At A la Lucia, the dish is flavored with subtlety so that the flavor of the ingredients themselves, rather than the dressing, is important.

Salads include a Caesar with Parmigiano cheese, arugula with Parmigiano, and endive with Gorgonzola. Greens are crisp and fresh; the vinaigrette is light and flavorful.

Soups include such standards as minestrone, lentil, and a prosciutto-based bean soup.