Little labor, zesty day

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Move over mayo, make way for pesto. Soggy tuna sandwiches? Replaced by panini. Cans of Coke? Make that champagne with a straw. Labor Day picnics are going gourmet, say pros in the picnic packing, planning and preparing business.

"People are putting more thought into making picnics personal and unique," says Chicago-based party planner Debi Lilly, whose business, A Perfect Event, threw Oprah Winfrey's 50th birthday party. She identifies theme picnics such as French or Tuscan — serving foods from those regions — as popular. "They're not more difficult or complicated — you can buy many things from gourmet groceries — but they're much more special."

Challenged by wraps in recent years, picnic-staple sandwiches have had a makeover, replacing Wonder Bread with artisan baguettes, using soppresotta instead of bologna, gooey hunks of brie winning over cheese product singles and French's Mustard the victim of pestos of every stripe.

"Simply constructed with fresh ingredients, flavor combinations in sandwiches can be bold and unforgettable," says Nancy Silverton, founder of La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles. "Don't look at them as complicated sandwiches, but as satisfying entrees on bread. If you're willing to venture beyond the basic construction of a sandwich, just slapping two pieces of bread together with filling in the middle, this will expand your horizons. Be creative and think outside of the sandwich box."

Think way beyond sandwiches, says Joachim Splichal, chef and founder of the Patina Restaurant Group, which handles food service at the Hollywood Bowl concert venue in Los Angeles along with dozens of restaurants. He favors bringing items from a traditional dining table outdoors.

"Picnics are about spending time with family and friends, but that doesn't mean you have to eat sandwiches," says Mr. Splichal. "I like to bring great wines, artisan cheeses, even a chilled soup to make the experience more exciting."

Increasingly sophisticated palates demand more thrills, say caterers and chefs. "We get people on dates or with friends they want to impress," says Azmin Ghahreman, chef/owner of Sapphire Pantry in Laguna Beach, Calif., a new takeout shop that specializes in upscale picnics.

He offers such savory fare as grilled vegetable couscous salad, chilled shrimp with harissa aioli, asparagus tips with truffle mayo and tenderloin sandwiches with arugula pesto on ciabatta bread. "Elements of surprise are important. It's a well-balanced meal and not just a Coke and tuna salad."

Grain salads are edging out traditional pasta salads in health-minded circles, according to Chicago-based Tasty Catering, which threw 418 picnics last year. The company also noted using higher quality meats such as skinless, boneless chicken breasts in preparations.

If you're planning on cooking before heading outdoors to dine, party planner Lilly advises making one salad as the focal point of the meal and supplementing with store-bought breads, cheeses, fruits, nuts and desserts. "The beauty of a picnic is it's so simple," she says. "You don't have to slave over the stove, and you'll still have something special."