Quick as 1-2-3, chicken paillard is on the table

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A dinner partner recently asked, "What is chicken paillard?" I hesitated for a moment, my memory returning to my stint at

the Cordon Bleu years ago, and I explained that like chicken scaloppine, a paillard is thinly pounded meat, fish or chicken that is sauteed quickly. The difference is that a scaloppine has a dusting of flour that creates a crisp crust, while a paillard is cooked without a coating. They traditionally are served with a splash of lemon or an uncomplicated sauce.

A paillard is the perfect weeknight entree because it takes just a few minutes to pound and even less time to cook. To flatten the chicken breasts, place them on a cutting board between plastic wrap or waxed paper and pound with the smooth side of a meat pounder, a rolling pin — even the bottom of a heavy skillet or saucepan. I find the easiest way to create an even thickness is to pound from the thickest part at the center to the outer edges.

Unfortunately, I have encountered more than my share of overcooked "shoe-leather" paillards. The key to keeping them moist is quick cooking on high heat to sear the outside while briefly cooking the interior.

I suggest removing the meat when it just turns opaque in the center. It will finish cooking off the stove, allowing it to be fully cooked and juicy. Your family and friends will thank you.

Paillards can be prepared with either simple seasoning rubs or quick sauces. I like to marinate them or season them before cooking to give them plenty of flavor. They usually are cooked skinless (which makes them a low-fat favorite).

The lemon and pistachio pesto blend here is a lovely combination that adds just the right flavor to the thin cutlets. This pesto also is great on fish or swirled into hot pasta.

You also can try your favorite pesto with this recipe. Using rich, herbed nut pastes to flavor the thinly pounded chicken breasts adds not only flavor but moistness with their olive-oil base. Just make sure there is no sugar in the pesto ingredients, or the paillards could burn before they are finished cooking.

Serve these on a simple salad of arugula or mixed greens tossed with tiny yellow and red pear tomatoes, or serve with braised spinach or broccoli rabe. A light, dry rose is a nice accompaniment.

Help is on the way: Use a heavy nonstick ridged grill pan or skillet to saute the paillards. A grill pan will leave dark caramelized grill marks; a saute pan will leave an even-browned exterior and allows for making a quick deglazed sauce.