Going with the grain

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By Gabriella Boston

Grains and pastas are no longer evil. Not like they used to be back in the Atkins diet days, when they were considered dirty words at best.

Instead, as the economy tanks and people are looking to eat on the cheap, they're back in fashion.

"Yes, I think the rise in popularity of grains and pastas is driven mostly by the economy," says Sarah Kagan, food editor at Epicurious.com.

"Rice and beans are a lot cheaper than a big roast." Combined correctly, grains and legumes - such as rice and beans - can yield high protein levels a la meats, enabling people to cut down on pork, beef and poultry without losing out on nutritional values.

"I think people are looking at ways to substitute meats for a variety of reasons," says Andrew F. Smith, who teaches culinary history at the New School in New York. "I think it's the economy, yes, but I think it's also a general fear of meat." We're afraid, Mr. Smith says, because of recent bacteria scares and unseemly factory farming practices.

"This is why we're seeing an increasing trend toward vegetarianism," says Mr. Smith, who has written prolifically on food, including the Encyclopedia of Junk Food and Fast Food.

People who are looking at increasing their vegetarian food intake often choose high-protein grains and pastas. Whole grain has experienced a dramatic increase in popularity in the past decade, according to the Whole Grain Council, and is one such high-protein and high-fiber food.

"The high fiber content means that it takes longer for the body to break [it] down," says Ms. Kagan. "That means you will stay full longer."

For people wondering whatever happened to claims that carbs make them fat, Ms. Kagan says it was never the carbs in and of themselves that helped expand the American waistline.

It had to do with portion sizes, which have increased significantly over the past few decades: On average, Americans ate 500 calories more per day in 2000 than they did in 1970, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

There is also a psychological component to the current carb love, though.

"In times of stress, we tend to eat more carbohydrates," Mr. Smith says.

"It's comforting. I can't change the banking system, but I can change what I eat, and I sure would like a bowl of cereal."

• For high-protein vegetarian meals, such as stuck-pot-rice and lentils with pita crust, go to www.epicurious.com.